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The Outfit: A Tailor’s Quiet Defiance Against Gangland Chaos

Martin Cid
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The needle of Leonard Burling’s sewing machine whirrs furiously as blood seeps into the fabric he’s working on. This is the jarring, darkly comic opening of Graham Moore’s “The Outfit,” a crime drama that stitches together an unlikely ensemble in a Chicago tailor shop. The film wears its influences proudly, like a finely tailored suit, but it’s Moore’s fresh perspective—rooted in Leonard’s unique profession—that makes this familiar genre feel newly relevant.

Mark Rylance delivers a performance so meticulously measured it could have been cut from one of Leonard’s bespoke suits. His English tailor-turned-reluctant-confidant to gangsters is a study in quiet intensity, his soft-spoken demeanor belied by the steely resolve behind his eyes. Rylance’s ability to convey volumes with a glance or a hesitant pause is the film’s strongest asset. He carries the weight of the narrative effortlessly, grounding the film in an authenticity that elevates even its most outlandish moments.

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Zoey Deutch shines as Mable, Leonard’s sharp-witted niece, whose street smarts and moral compass provide a counterpoint to her uncle’s reserved nature. Her chemistry with Rylance is palpable, their dynamic serving as the film’s emotional core. Deutch’s performance is a reminder of her range, as she navigates the complexities of Mable’s character with ease.

Moore, best known for his Oscar-winning screenplay for “The Imitation Game,” makes his directorial debut here with a confident command of tension. He understands the power of silence, allowing scenes to breathe and unfurl naturally. The film’s strongest moments come when the script plays to its strengths: a tense negotiation scene where Leonard uses his tailoring knowledge to outwit a gangster, or a brutal act of violence staged with such stark simplicity it lingers long after it’s over.

The sound design is particularly noteworthy, with the hum of the sewing machine serving as an eerie leitmotif. It’s a subtle but effective touch that underscores the film’s themes of craftsmanship and precision. The use of silence is equally impressive, with Moore allowing moments of quiet to speak volumes. This is especially evident in the scenes between Leonard and Mable, where their unspoken bond is as powerful as any dialogue.

Yet “The Outfit” isn’t without its pitfalls. The supporting cast, while capable, often feel one-dimensional compared to Rylance and Deutch. Johnny Flynn, Dylan O’Brien, and Simon Russell Beale each have their moments, but their characters are more archetypes than fully realized people. This is particularly evident in the film’s second act, where the mystery at its core takes a backseat to exposition.

The script also struggles with pacing in its second act, as it tries to balance its various narrative threads. The result is a film that sometimes feels uneven, with moments of brilliance interspersed with stretches of familiarity. This is a shame, as the film’s first and third acts are so strong. The opening sequence, in particular, is a masterclass in tension and dark comedy, setting the tone for the rest of the film.

The film’s genre fit is solid if unremarkable. It borrows heavily from classic crime dramas and thrillers, with nods to everything from “Goodfellas” to “No Country for Old Men.” While it never quite transcends its influences, Moore’s fresh perspective—rooted in Leonard’s unique profession—keeps things engaging.

“The Outfit” is a film that knows how to make an entrance but sometimes loses its way in the middle. It’s a story about craftsmanship and the people who dedicate their lives to their art, even when that art is used for nefarious purposes. It’s a film about family and the bonds that hold us together, even in the darkest of times.

At its heart, “The Outfit” is a character study, and it’s Rylance’s performance that anchors the film. He brings a depth and nuance to Leonard that makes him one of the most compelling characters in recent memory. Deutch is equally impressive as Mable, her performance a reminder of her range and talent.

“The Outfit” is for fans of crime dramas who appreciate strong performances and well-crafted narratives. It’s for viewers who enjoy films that explore the complexities of human nature, even when those humans are involved in criminal activities.

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Photos: The Movie Database (TMDB)

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