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Tornatore turns Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere empire into a two-hour act of devotion

Veronica Loop

Giuseppe Tornatore builds his new documentary around a single, telling conceit: a card game. Across the table from Brunello Cucinelli sits an unseen opponent, and each hand turns over another chapter of the entrepreneur’s life — the grandfather he called “little fox,” the father he called “young lord,” the wife he calls “the wolf.” It is an elegant way to narrate a biography, and a revealing one, because the man on screen is both the subject of the legend and its principal author.

The film, “Brunello: The Gracious Visionary,” is less interested in the mechanics of a business than in the belief system wrapped around it. Cucinelli built a luxury label out of a hill town in Umbria and grew it into a company worth billions, all while preaching what he calls humanistic capitalism — fair wages, restored architecture, the dignity of manual work. Tornatore takes that gospel at face value and frames it as a moral achievement rather than a market position.

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The people Tornatore gathers to testify tell you exactly what kind of film this wants to be. Oprah Winfrey appears. So do the LinkedIn co-founder Reid Hoffman, the Chinese actor Liu Tao, Formula One chief executive Stefano Domenicali and the Benedictine monk Cassian Folsom. This is not a chorus of tailors and factory hands; it is a gallery of the globally powerful, assembled to confirm that a billionaire can also be a moral philosopher. The casting is the argument.

For Tornatore, the reverent portrait is familiar terrain. The director who won an Oscar for Cinema Paradiso has spent his recent career building affectionate monuments — most conspicuously to the film composer Ennio Morricone — and he brings the same lush, nostalgic grammar here, scored by the Oscar-winning Nicola Piovani. The reconstructions are shot at golden hour; the archival footage is tenderly cut. Tornatore knows precisely how to make a single life look like destiny.

The card-game device is the film’s cleverest idea and its safest one. It lets Tornatore skip the awkward arithmetic of a fortune — margins, valuations, supply chains — and replace it with fable: fate dealing hands to a man who keeps drawing well. Piovani’s score does the rest, swelling under archival frames until a business decision starts to feel like a moral one. It is expert filmmaking, and it is also a choice about what to leave off the table.

What Cucinelli sells, and what the film sells alongside him, is the proposition that capitalism can be gentle. His workers keep humane hours, his profits rebuild a medieval village, his brand trades on quietness rather than logos. That story has made him a fixture of the business-school circuit and a favourite of luxury’s conscience-seeking clientele. For long stretches the documentary is genuinely moving, because it is not every day that a rich man stands up to argue, in earnest, that decency scales.

He founded the company at the end of the 1970s on a contrarian bet — that dyed cashmere could anchor a woman’s wardrobe — and built it, improbably, from Solomeo, a restored hamlet where he relocated the headquarters, a school and a theatre. The market rewarded the story: the label is publicly listed and Cucinelli remains its controlling shareholder and its public face. “King of Cashmere” is the press shorthand, and the film neither questions the crown nor complicates it.

There is a reason a mogul now commands an Oscar winner’s attention. Luxury has spent the past decade selling meaning as much as merchandise, and Cucinelli is the sector’s most fluent evangelist for the pitch that consumption can be virtuous. A film like this is part of that argument — a corporate document dressed as cinema, arriving as the industry chases growth in markets where the story of the craftsman-philosopher still sells. That it is beautifully made does not make it disinterested.

It also never blinks. The documentary was unveiled at a gala the subject himself hosted, and it carries the frictionless polish of a portrait made with its subject rather than about him. It declines the obvious questions: whether a four-figure sweater can really be an instrument of social justice, whether humanistic capitalism is a governance model or a brand asset, whether the artisans who stitch the cashmere would narrate their own dignity the way their employer does. Tornatore is too gracious to press. The result is admiring where it might have been curious.

Brunello Cucinelli in the Giuseppe Tornatore documentary Brunello: The Gracious Visionary, 2026
Brunello Cucinelli in Brunello: The Gracious Visionary (2026)

“Brunello: The Gracious Visionary” runs 121 minutes and blends cinematic reconstruction, archival material and interviews, pairing Tornatore’s direction with Piovani’s score. It held its world premiere at Cinecittà Studios in Rome and its North American gala at Lincoln Center in New York, and Cucinelli has already carried it as far as Shanghai — a fair indication of where luxury now expects its growth. Blue Fox Entertainment is handling the wider release.

After opening in Italy and touring US galas, the film expands into cinemas across the United Kingdom, Ireland and North America on 24 July. Whether audiences receive it as inspiration or as an elegantly photographed advertisement will depend on how much devotion they bring to the table.

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