Business

Oura Targets a $2.2 Billion IPO. Its Valuation Hangs on the Part That Isn’t the Ring

Victor Maslow
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When a company that sells a piece of finger jewelry decides to go public as a technology story, the interesting question is not how much it wants to raise. It is which version of the business investors are being asked to buy. Oura, maker of the smart ring that turned sleep tracking into a status object, is filing to list in the United States, and the pitch is not really about the ring at all.

That distinction matters more than the headline figure, and more than the eye-watering paper loss buried in the filing that will spook anyone who stops at the first line. Oura is, in fact, a profitable company. The debate worth having is not whether it makes money. It is whether the thing that makes the money is defensible.

Strip out a one-time accounting charge — a roughly $1.09 billion buyback of preferred stock from early backers — and the picture is a business in rude health. Over the nine months to the end of June, Oura booked about $1.2 billion in revenue, up 74% year on year, with $60.8 million in net income, positive adjusted earnings and gross margins near 55%. It sold 4.1 million rings in that stretch, more than double the year before, and now counts five million paying members across 56 markets. That the loss attributable to common shareholders reads as $924 million is a quirk of the preferred buyback, not a hole in the operations. Coverage that leads with that number is reading the balance sheet backwards.

Here is where the read gets harder. Oura wants the market to value it near $16 billion — a leap from the roughly $11 billion Fidelity’s round conferred less than a year earlier. A number like that is a software multiple. But close to four in five dollars Oura earns still come from selling hardware: a one-time transaction in a category where the ring itself is fast becoming a commodity.

Samsung already sells the Galaxy Ring with no monthly fee, wired into the largest smartphone ecosystem on the planet. RingConn, Ultrahuman and Circular undercut Oura’s price and skip the subscription entirely. Apple, whose watch defined modern wearables, is the shadow over every prospectus in the category. Oura’s answer has been as much legal as commercial: it won an import exclusion order against Ultrahuman rather than fight on price. That is the posture of a company defending ground it cannot hold on hardware alone.

Which is precisely why the membership is the whole story. The subscription at $5.99 a month — only around a fifth of revenue — is the entire investment thesis, because it is the only part of Oura that behaves like software. Its economics are strong: membership revenue jumped 121%, and the company says more than eight in ten members renew after their first year. Daily users equal roughly 65% of monthly users, the kind of engagement that keeps a device on the finger rather than in a drawer. If that recurring layer holds as no-fee rivals scale, the valuation is arguable. If retention softens, the multiple has nothing to stand on.

Stacked on top is a concentration risk: more than 80% of hardware revenue is American, leaving the growth story hostage to one market’s appetite and one country’s tariff regime. And the customer base — heavily women, with its fastest-growing cohort in their early twenties — is a real strength that is also, by definition, a wager on fashion as much as physiology.

The offering will price the ring. What Wall Street is actually buying is the renewal — the bet that five million people keep paying for the software long after the novelty of the hardware wears off. That is a fine bet to make. It is a strange one to price as if it were already won.

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