David Gill Gallery has announced New Nature, a forthcoming group exhibition curated by author and historian Carol Woolton that investigates the evolving representation of the natural world within the discipline of fine jewellery. Through the work of seven international designers, the presentation explores the diversity of contemporary design, positing that the artistic interpretation of nature is inextricably linked to the technological, artistic, and environmental shifts of the current era.
The exhibition’s curatorial framework addresses the concept of “new nature” against a backdrop of global eco-anxiety. Woolton suggests that while biophilic design has historically served to enhance decorative arts, the modern focus has shifted from the appropriation of exotic hothouse blooms to a protectionist appreciation of humble, indigenous flora. This transition is evident in the work of British artist Christopher Thompson Royds, who elevates hedgerow botanicals such as clovers and catkins—often overlooked as weeds—by rendering them in silver and bronze, thereby challenging traditional hierarchies of value in high jewellery.
A significant portion of the exhibition is dedicated to material innovation and the subversion of classical techniques. Roman artist Maurizio Fioravanti, a self-taught practitioner, revitalizes the ancient tradition of micro-mosaic, fusing this historical craft with avant-garde materials. His “Cage” earrings, for instance, set precious micro-mosaics into porcelain wings mounted on lightweight zirconium structures, creating a synthesis of antiquity and modern engineering. Similarly, Fabio Salini, also based in Rome, draws upon a background in geological sciences to introduce non-traditional elements such as carbon fibre, leather, and straw into his atelier work, adopting a conceptual approach that questions established luxury norms.
The exhibition also juxtaposes architectural rigour with narrative fluidity. Lebanese, UK-based architect and designer Dina Kamal applies principles of proportion, context, and structure to her jewellery, seeking a balance between architectural stability and sensual form, as seen in her matte golden “fish-tail” rings. In contrast, Hong Kong-based Michelle Ong, co-founder of Carnet, utilizes storytelling and Chinese philosophy to explore the five phases of nature—wood, fire, earth, metal, and water. Her contributions are characterized by biomimicry and technical precision, exemplified by diamond-lace butterfly wings that articulate themes of gravity-defying lightness.
Further exploring textural artistry, US-based designer Mish Tworkowski presents works inspired by horticulture, utilizing gold to replicate the irregular surfaces of tree bark and twigs observed in upstate New York. The gallery also introduces Paris-based newcomer Philippe Vourc’h, whose debut “Lobe” collection focuses on the abstraction of ephemeral moments, characterized by a sophisticated, timeless elegance.
Francis Sultana, CEO of David Gill Gallery, situates this exhibition within the gallery’s broader historical context, noting a legacy of presenting objets de désir that spans from the 50 Years of Fashion exhibition in 1987 to contemporary showcases of artists such as Line Vautrin and Michele Oka Doner.
New Nature will be on view at David Gill Gallery, 2-4 King Street, London, from 14 November to 22 December 2025.
